Omigod, we´re back again….
Okay, we left off on our last night in Banos, which turned out to be a lovely evening, even though we didn´t actually end up going to the mountain top baths as planned (turned out we accidentally spent an hour in the internet cafe writing epic emails and so missed our window of opportunity. poor planning. oh well). We grabbed a late dinner and FINALLY had a night when we went to bed at a reasonable hour, which ended up being pretty good planning based on the epic journey we had to undertake the next day….
What epic journey, you ask? Well. In planning our route through Ecuador, we decided to not exactly limit ourselves by the boundaries of distance. Actually, we decided to trust google maps hwen they told us that Banos and our next stop Cuenca were a mere 3 hours apart. What we didn´t realize, however, was that 3 hours according to google maps´ calculation of distance does not take into account the insanely wind-y, often cloud-covered, often dirt roads….Upon chatting with people in Banos, we learned that Cuenca was both ¨muy linda!¨ and also ¨muyyyyy lejos¨ (far) and that it would require at least 8 hours on a bus, including one transfer, and about 2 hours on an extremely precipitous, cloud-encased Andean rode whose conditions were ¨ehhhh….you see when you get there¨. Oh, and also: there would likely be no bathroom on the 8 hour bus ride. We decided that we would take the hour and a half bus to the hub town of Riobamba (say the name outloud….seriously. Just rolls off the tongue. provides great amusement) and then take a taxi the rest of the way, which would hopefully cut an hour or two out of the journey and solve the problem of being TERRIFIED of our giant bus falling off the side of a mountain. WE had our hotel call us a cab to take us to the bus station in Banos, and when we got in, we started chatting with our cab driver. Our conversation (translated) went something like this:
Leslie (driver): oh the terminal? where are you guys going?Us: Cuenca. Well, riobamba and then Cuenca.Leslie: ohhhh Cuenca es muy linda. y muy lejos! You know, you could take a taxi to Riobamba…Us: how much?LEslie: Or….you could take a taxi to Cuenca….Us: how much…? (note: we had established among ourselves that we would pay $150 to go from Riobamba to Cuenca)Leslie: $150Us: (glance at each other)……VAMOS A CUENCA!!!!
and so we vamos-ed a cuenca, in probably one of the two best descisions we´ve made so far on the trip (other one being skippnig the night in latacunga). Leslie turned out to be a GREAT cab driver and travel companion–he told us tons of stories and information about the towns we passed and explained the volcano´s history to us. We also had a really interesting, sad conversation with him about Ecuadorians´ views on immigration to the US…it was pretty tragic to hear about the myths that fly around about the prosperity and easy life that comes with immigrating illegally. The drive, of course, was both fascinating and gorgeous. We passed towns that had literally been covered by the volcano (apparently the government provided people with new houses) when it erupted violently in 2006, and saw the dried cascades of lava that had buried houses and stores. The drive was stunning, as expected, as we first climbed higher into the Andes, passing by towns so high that they literally had clouds hanging directly on the roads and then descending down a few thousand feet into the tropical valley that is home to the town of Cuenca.
Cuenca is a beautiful, beautiful colonial town, constructed directly over the former Inca city of Tomembaba. It´s laid out in typical Spanish fashion with dramatic and ornate cathedrals each setting off their own plaza or city park. When we arrived in Cuenca (a mere 5.5 hours to our previously expected 8 to 10), we immediately got to the most important businss of our trip: exploring the markets. Cuenca is known for its artisan markets, and we wandered through town, taking pictures of the cathedrals (that vaguely remind me of everything from st. peter´s basilica to cinderella´s castle) and extremely beautiful buildings (I LOVE public grandeur…damn the US and its whole ¨¨I was never ruled by a king who wanted to demonstrate his power via buildings and monument¨ thing), and stopping at various market stalls. The town began to close down around 8pm, though, and we´d eaten a late lunch, so we returned to our hostel to kill a little bit of time before dinner. We ended up watching a movie and doing a puzzle and then grabbing a late, simple dinner and passing out immediately afterwards.
This morning we got up and headed down to a street called the Calle Larga (remember that name…it will come up again) to find the Museo de Banco Central (apparently every city in ecuador has a museum that goes by this name), which was supposed to have a number of Inca artifacts found on the city site, as well as the only remaining Inca ruins left over from Tomembaba (which was actually quite a major city in its time). The museum, however, was just weird….the Inca room was almost entirely dark and seemed to make absolutely no conceptual or chronological sense. They also, inexplicably, had a lovely exhibit about the American Civil Rights movement, with pictures of Rosa Parks and MLK…. The most interesting part of the museum, though, was the upstairs section that featured exhibits on all of the different indigenous groups currently living in Ecuador. The ruins, however……were totally lame. They were very sparse–essentially only the foundation of a few former buildings, which meant that, because there was nothing left over from what was once above ground, they did not even feature the Inca stonework that is supposed to be so impressive and fascinating. It was still pretty cool to be at the site of Inca history, though, and I personally reveled in being able to spout historical information, as I am wont to do….Amusingly, however, ¨disappointment¨ became somewhat of a theme in our day (which was great, regardless).
We decided to wander down calle larga….twice….in hope that all of these amazing stores and galleries wtih extremely tantalizing signs about panitings and ceramics were open. They weren´t. THey were inexplicably still closed when we returned later that day…and again wandered up and down twice. We are SOOO familiar with the calle larga now (and are apparently returning momentarily for dinner). Then we went to find the ¨best market for local artesania in Cuenca¨. When we arrived there, we saw that the site was….bulldozed??? Then we went to find a very famous ceramics shop…which had moved??? Luckily, we still managed to find a ton of interesting shops and stores and essentially spent the day using shopping as an excuse to wander around the city and just walk up and down its gorgeous colonial streets. When we stopped back at the hostel before dinner, we realized that we had covered the entire map of Cuenca in our travel guide. Tons of walking, and a great way to get a sense of the city and what life was like there, between lush flower markets, sunny parks, and the ornate buildings that I´m sure you will soon see in a ridiculous number of pictures.
